Cruising the Caribbean... Part One

Floating five-star luxury for the price of living at home, a new island to explore every day after which you return to find your duvet turned down – no wonder so many old people think it’s a great idea! Staff who know your favourite drink after the first (long, boozy) evening and smiling faces making your omelette, benedict, fried or poached eggs just the way you like it.

Boarding into the three story foyer to the strains of the beautiful Ukrainian string quartet we were only too glad to shake off the memories of the rude port staff and the dust of the Fort Lauderdale harbour and grab a glass (or three) of bubbly proffered by white-jacketed staff.

While exploring the ship before the launch party we found that many people had made themselves immediately at home – obviously not strangers to the lifestyle or our boat, the Constellation. Pigging out at the buffet, grabbing at many books and newspapers from the library as their little arms could carry, trying to pick up the Ukrainian musicians

Deck Eleven at Sunset

(not literally, thank goodness) and chain drinking at one of the many bars - the immediately obvious drawback to our new floating lifestyle was many of our fellow passengers, a group largely made up of Americans, Canadians and British (who you could easily identify as they waited in line for 4pm afternoon tea).

Three of us shared an interior double cabin (read – absolute cheapest they have. Why spend money on a place to sleep?), with mom and I comfortably ensconced in the king-sized bed and poor Craig on a pull-out chair. At least he had unfettered access to the bathroom! We unpacked everything into the ample cupboard space and stored

our suitcases away neatly. A little tip for the aspiring cruiser – take the smallest, cheapest cabin you can, unless you are absolutely loaded or planning to spend lots of time in your room. Spend the money you save on drinks – if you’re not a teetoller they’ll cost you a pretty penny.

During the next few weeks we’ll take a Soapbox cruise around the gorgeous islands of the Eastern Caribbean – St Thomas, Antigua, St Lucia, Grenada, Tobago, Aruba, and Curacao.

Monkey Business in the Big Apple

I looked around the lavish setting with big-eyed awe as the barman poured made our cocktails – clear, toffee-colored Manhattans. We had really struggled to find the place. The kind cab driver switched off the meter as he drove us up and down the road until we all simultaneously realized that the unmarked door guarded by heavies was in fact the very place we had been looking for – New York’s iconic Monkey Bar.

Frequented in the forties by the best in business, music and film, falling in and out of disrepair during the following decades and most recently highlighted as the glamorous venue for a date between Carrie and Big in Season Four of Sex and the City; the Monkey Bar has a history to be proud of. This I was well aware of on my maiden trip to New York – a city symbolized by the Empire State Building, Statue of Liberty, Central Park and other impressive landmarks. So trust me to feel like I’ve truly arrived in the city of my dreams only when I’ve had a cocktail in a bar so symbolic of the location. A tad unfortunately, it was too late for there to be many other people around and although we had a good peek, the adjoining restaurant was closed. This all much to my indignation – the city is not supposed to sleep. Ever!

The romance and elegance of a by-gone era is immortalized by jungle jazz murals on the walls, pre-World War II fittings, voluptuous red booths and courtly tuxedoed waiters standing attentively behind the impressive wooden bar. It is a place in which one feels cushioned from the outside world – as if nothing bad could happen and that life really was all about designer ball gowns and sparkly things – and really, why not bring white gloves back?

I have only been to the Monkey Bar once, but I know that I will revisit whenever I return to New York. I will most likely never be a regular in the true, neighborhood sense of the word, yet my visits will be as regular as I can make them. In such a modern, exciting city it is a place that links the present with a more glamorous (and suggestively sordid) time; proof that true style and elegance has never been out of fashion and a testament to the staying power of the art of beautiful cocktails.

On the Rails - The Rocky Mountain Express

As we rattled through the British Columbian countryside, I gazed at the dappled colors of the passing leaves and reflected on our trip. Enjoyable? Immensely. Fun? Of course. Value for money? No way. We were on the Rocky Mountain Express bound for Vancouver, two cold breakfasts and lunches and one night’s stop in Kamloops included, all for $709.00 per person. Traveling economy from Jasper to the coast, our envious glances took in the large dome cars curving on the tracks behind us (filled with starched tablecloths, crystal glasses and hot gourmet meals) until we remembered how much their occupants had to fork out for their tickets - a whopping $1589.00 per person.

Our helpful guide made sure we were all wearing our red maple leaf pins as proudly as we could (as opposed to the shinier gold pins of the domed deluxe class) and from time to time told us about the area through which we were passing while serving us drinks, Bits ‘n Bites and cookies.

Aside from the scenery, which mostly consisted of leaves flashing past, occasional bridges and an awesome view of Mount Robson, it felt quite a lot like being in an airplane with more leg room. As all we could do was let go and relax, we napped, ate all the food that was handed out to us and read books and magazines, exchanging pleasantries with those seated around us.

Getting out in Kamloops was a relief after sitting all day - we explored the town more as a way of stretching our legs than actual sightseeing. Then we readied ourselves and made pretty for the Rocky Mountain Express Dinner Theatre ($80.00 per person, alcoholic drinks not included). Bussed through the town from our hotel, we were pleasantly surprised to be shown to our table in an amphitheater looking over the stage. The food was delicious. Fresh salads, good soup, a fragrant roast and their famed broiled salmon dish meant that the tickets were well worth while before the entertainment even started. That too, was pleasantly surprising. The all British Columbian cast sung along to favorites from the sixties as the lead actor made his way across Canada by, you guessed it, train. The service was amazing and tables cheered as their waitrons appeared for cameo parts onstage.

The next morning was filled with cheery hellos as all the travelers congregated in the hotel lobby for cardboard cups of tepid tea. Boarding the train felt like familiar territory and we settled in for our final day abroad. Cereal or croissants meant that the breakfasts were filling and inoffensive but the uninspiring choice of chilled salmon or chicken at lunch left us, well, cold. By this time the carriage was chatting raucously and sitting in each other’s seats as we dutifully filled out our evaluation forms, feeling like children at the end of a long school trip.

Pulling into Vancouver we waited in sidings for ages as the more important freight trains crawled by. We had enjoyed a great trip with family and had met lovely people. Would I recommend it? Only if you haven’t seen that portion of the Canadian countryside. Oh yes, and if you have the spare cash rattling around. Otherwise save it up for the tropical all-inclusive and get cocktails and a tan as well.

"You're a Million Miles Away and I Miss You So Today"

The old adage proclaims that absence makes the heart fonder, and is often irritatingly true. Like many of the millions of South Africans temporarily or permanently living outside the country, I miss home. A lot. Not just Mrs Ball’s Chutney or NikNaks (both of which I can buy for exorbitant prices from a shrivelled ex-Pretorian). Not just the mountain or the sea or the weather or the food. It’s that and other things too. I miss walking along a road and seeing people of all different shapes, sizes and colours. Or hearing different languages and practicing my faltering isiXhosa with ever-patient tutors. I even miss catcalls, shout-outs and rude gestures on the street – being politely first world is just no fun. In short, I long for the gees, and not only that belonging to the World Cup.

South Africa is cheeky, dangerous and hilariously funny, often because if it wasn’t, it would just be so much more sad. It’s a country with raw emotion, burgeoning creativity, a lack of electricity and bandwith and an overflow of bright, brash colour. So whenever I get overly sentimental (now, you say?) and bored with the bland safety and inane comforts of the first world, I play these songs.

1. Jack Parrow – “Cooler as Ekke”

Crazy guy, crazy song. One that only a true South African would understand. Zef rap is astonishingly comforting from outside the border, although I’m sure that once home it might not be my most often played song.

Best Line: “Jy’s die ou met die new, fresh look, Ek’s die ou met die Pep store broek”

2. Freshly Ground – “Chicken for Change”

Who could be sad or stand still while listening to any of this band’s songs? We started shuffling to Doo Be Doo and carried on from there. This is their new politically charged song, which showcases famous characters and is a Zapiro collaboration.

Best Line: It’s not a line at all, it’s Helen Zille’s dance moves. She’s awesome!

3. Karen Zoid – “Aeroplane Jane”

Gorgeous artist and, in my opinion, her bestest song! It’s so beautiful and evocative that you should listen to it instead of read this. I love the funny lyrics paired with the plaintive melody.

Best Line: “And the strange man next to me, don’t say thank you, don’t say please…he just cut my cheese”

4. Mandoza – “Nkalakatha”

I’m bopping in front of my screen right now (sadly in quite a white way). And although I don’t know what it means, I know all the words. The ultimate party song!

Best Line: “Nkalakatha… … Mandoza”

5. Soweto String Quartet – “Millenia”

This band has such a happy sound, and brings back Kirstenbosch picnics (overcrowded blankets, spilt wine, wind and fun)

Best Line: The looks on these guys’ faces says it all! I love their music videos.

6. Seether – “Careless Whisper”

If this choice is cheating because they are now based in the United States, I don’t care. To take a beautiful melody from whiny to rip-your-clothes-off sexy is quite a feat, and one I’m forever thankful they achieved.

Best Line: “There’s no comfort in the truth, pain is all you’ll find”. And his voice. Mmmm

7. Parletones – “Push Me to the Floor”

How do I choose just one song? I never have favourites and they are beyond a doubt my favourite SA band.

Best Line “Don’t stand next to me, I love the smell of ecstasy, it makes me feel inspired”

8. Gang of Instrumentals – “My Number One”

This song is such a fusion of cultures and music styles and just works. Whoops – I’m bopping again. Great South African band, I could dance (or just shuffle) to this anywhere!

Best Line: It’s pretty much “Mother of my baby, you are my number one”. A lot.

And now I’ve had my SA fix and I’m smiling. Have a great weekend everyone!

Granville Island

For all things Granville, read "Things to do on Granville Island".

Vancouver 2010

Hospitable host of this year’s Winter Olympics, abode of a burgeoning film industry known as the Hollywood North and called hometown by stars such as Ryan Reynolds, Michael J Fox and Joshua Jackson; Vancouver is the epitome of laid-back cool. Quietly having built up its cult following over the last few years, it has suddenly (almost surprisingly) popped up the city to see in 2010. Only a ferry-ride away from Seattle, the city of sea, yoga and bucketing rain is perfect for a weekend getaway or family trip – especially when the sun breaks through.

The great restaurants and world class shopping are major attractions of the seaside metropolis what really differentiates it from other North American cities is the ambience, or as we like to say, the vibe, bru. Vancouver is known throughout the world for its relaxed style, eco-consciousness, tolerance and seemingly collective love of exercise and the outdoors. This list contains the best of the west (coast, that is).

Granville Island

Take a five minute water-taxi to this bustling arts and gourmet destination. While

its main attraction must definitely be the fresh food market housed in rambling warehouses, a short stroll will take you to the boutique shops, theatres for both grownups and kids and even an arts university.

We heart: The postcard shop – full of vintage prints and retro notebooks. Perfect for cheap gifts. Also the Granville Island Tea Company – choose your leaves from hundreds on offer!

Stanley Park

Forming a peninsular of garden and trails on the west of downtown, Stanley Park flows seamlessly into the city and is where locals and tourists alike come to bike, blade, swim or run. Breathtaking views in all weathers mean that the circular trail running along the coast is always humming.

We heart: The people-watching opportunities. Sit on a bench and watch families swimming in the outdoor pool, self-elected mavens of cool blading past and young couples getting all schmoopy.

Sushi

In the city everything is all about the sea, so many of the restaurants are all about the seafood. Salmon abounds galore around Vancouver and the sushi restaurants are manifold and good. If you are a fan, enjoy, if not, try it out – you’ll be a convert in no time.

We heart: The fresh sashimi. And being able to find a sushi restaurant whenever we feel peckish.

Lululemon

Little known outside North America, this luxe yoga & active wear company is a Vancouver native, born in 1998 in a yoga studio and quickly growing to become a Canadian phenomenon. Cheap? No. But worth it – and the healthy-living quotes that make up their logo are always inspiring. The even give free classes and demonstrations from all their retail venues! Call me a fan.

We heart: The hoodies. High necked, distinctive design that comes in all colours of the rainbow. These are no ordinary hoodies.

Gastown

This quaint area stretches only a few streets up and across, but these few streets are a haven of good eating, productive shopping and great photo opportunities. Birthplace of Vancouver in 1867, the area is called after the maverick gold digger and saloon owner, John “Gassy Jack” Deighton.

We heart: Eating gorgeous food at the River Cafe while looking out onto the traditional steam clock. If you manage to take a photo of it without any tourists in your frame then count yourself lucky!

That about sums it up for me. Visit and write your own list, or add to mine on the comments section below!

Have a Look at What is New on "The Soapbox"!

New in this week we have:

- Fascinating opinion piece on the Gulf of Mexico oil spill and climate change from a South African engineer

- Gorgeous self portrait and piercing poem "What it Means to Look White?" by Premilla Murcott

- Several new entries in The Globetrotter column

- Movie review in Life & Culture on "I Love You, Phillip Morris"

- A new column in our fashion & style section, What Kate Did, about the London Fashion Week schedule, Crystle Renn's new job for Gaultier and much more.

Find it all at The Soapbox